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Trattoria Baldovino in Florence

You’ve been walking all day. The line at the Duomo was brutal. You finally made it to Piazza Santa Croce where the sun is shining and the crowds have thinned. But you’re hungry. Starving. Where should you go? There are a million choices-but how do you know the difference between what’s good what’s a tourist trap? Baldovino to the rescue! Located just a few steps to the left of Santa Croce at Via Giuseppe 22 (and 22r), you will find a restaurant and wine bar that’s refreshing in attitude, decor and cuisine. At the trattoria they have traditional Tuscan dishes like ribolitta (vegetable and bread soup) and the enoteca/caffe serves countless salads-perfect for lunch. The restaurant is light and airy, the wine selection is unique, and you can’t beat the location. Baldovino is actually owned by Scots, which explains the departure from the typical Tuscan trattoria menu and decor. Buon gusto!

May 15 Angels and Demons

Set almost entirely inn Rome, the movie based on Dan Brown’s book, Angels and Demons, will premier on May 15th. Word is that the moviemakers (including director Ron Howard) were banned from filming in any churches in Italy because the last Dan Brown film, The Da Vinci Code, portrayed the Catholic church in such a negative light. But apparently some shots of the Vatican will make it on the big screen-thanks to secret cameras! If you didn’t see the trailer on SuperBowl Sunday, watch it here.

The Roman Chocolate Factory

Since 1923, SAID chocolate has been providing Perugina and other famous Italian chocolatiers with the finest chocolate around. Just in time for Easter, you too can be a part of Italy’s chocolate dream when you visit the SAID Antica Fabbrica del Cioccolato in the neighborhood of San Lorenzo (Via Tiburtina 135). Closed in the summer months (no proper Italian would dream of drinking hot chocolate until autumn!) SAID offers tours of its facility as well as countless chocolate products ranging from milk to dark, alcoholic to ricotta filled. There is even a restaurant if you want to make an evening of it!

Anapo River Retreat in Siracusa

Just outside Siracusa, on the banks of the Anapo River, is an old masseria, or farming estate, that has been converted into a unique and stylish hotel. Surrounded by fields of flowers and fruit-bearing trees, the Caol Ishka Hotel is modern and rustic all at once. You’ll appreciate the infinity pool after a day touring Siracusa’s archaeological preserve (just a 15 minute drive away) and if you are feeling adventurous, take a canoe trip down the Anapo to its mouth in the Bay of Siracusa. From there you will have a gorgeous view of Ortygia, the ancient and Baroque part of Siracusa. Prices start at 190 Euros in the high season-not bad for a luxurious, peaceful escape.

How to Swim in the Blue Grotto

People will say that the Blue Grotto on Capri isn’t worth it. Well, if you don’t like wonders of nature, pristine water, and ancient mysteries, then maybe it isn’t worth it. But perhaps the rigmarole of hiring a boat to take you from the harbor to the grotto and then hiring another little boat to take you into the cave itself is a bit tiresome. So forget going by boat. Swim there! This is how you do it (it’s best if you are staying overnight on the island so that you can leave your possessions-and clothing-at your hotel).
1. Wait until after 5:00 so that the tour boats have all left. You don’t want to get run over by anyone.
2. Make sure you are wearing only your bathing suit (you can bring a t-shirt or cover-up with you for decency’s sake). Maybe you’d like to bring goggles too.
3. From Anacapri find the Via Grotta Azzurra. Follow this until you reach the stairs for the Grotta Azzurra.
4. Descend the stairs (not a short walk!).
5. Make sure that the sun is still shining brightly, the tide is very low and that the seas are calm. Very calm.
6. Dive in! Swim into the cave! (Watch your head). Marvel at the magic of the light reflecting off the water and the floor of the sea.
7. Swim out. (Watch your head).
8. Splash around outside the cave as the sun goes down. Never forget this moment.
Disclaimer: The Modern Traveler is not responsible for any injuries sustained in the Blue Grotto.

Beer Tasting in Trastevere

Popular Trastevere watering hole Bir e Fud is having a beer tasting event on Wednesday, March 4th at 7:00 pm. Fantome is a Belgian beer from the town of Soy and is known in by those “in the know” for its seasonally changing ingredients and quirky brewer, Dany Prignon. 4 of his beers will be on tap for the occasion. If you want to be a part of the tasting, be sure to make a reservation by Tuesday as these events are always sold out! Email mirkocaretta@gmail.com or call 001.39.06.5561677.

The Archaeology of Ancient Agrigento

Agrigento, a famous Greek colony, is an incredible archaeological site located in the heart of Southern Sicily. If you have been disappointed by the state of the ruins of Greek temples in Greece, Agrigento (ancient Akragas) will give you what you’ve been seeking. The Valley of the Temples boasts several well-preserved Doric temples (and some in ruins) overlooking the rugged Sicilian landscape and the sea. The town’s archaeology museum, located in the Convent of San Nicola, contains regional artifacts from prehistory to the Hellenistic era. Don’t miss this site, one of UNESCO’s treasures.

The Last Emperor Opens in the US

“The Last Emperor,” the documentary about the life and career of Roman designer Valentino, opens in the US in March. The Film Forum in NYC on March 18th is the first venue for this exciting movie that has all the fashion world talking. The movie provides an inside look at the high fashion world and all its foibles, and most endearingly portrays Valentino Garavani’s 50 year relationship with his partner Giancarlo Giammeti. If you can’t get to Manhattan for the show, see it in San Francisco, Los Angeles, Chicago and Dallas.

Tour Sicily by Cycle

InnTravel, a British holiday outfit, is offering unique bicycle tours of Italy. There are two tours of Sicily: The Realm of the Baroque, which is a gentle tour of the beaches, ruins and cathedrals of southeast Sicily (Siracusa and Ragusa are included) and Golden Cities, a more challenging ride through western Sicily beginning at Monreale, travelling down to Selinunte and ending in Marsala. The tours include bicycle rental, hotel accommodations, breakfast and many other meals. The tour company transports your baggage for you from town to town so you can be free to enjoy the scenery as you ride unencumbered. InnTravel also offers biking and walking tours and villa rentals in many other regions of Italy, including Sardinia and the Veneto.

Taormina’s Pasticceria Etna

Fruits made of marzipan (frutti di martarona), candied oranges, torroni and cannoli. These are the famous sweets of Sicily. Pasticceria Etna in Taormina does it best and has since 1963. The shop’s owner, Giuseppe Chemi, has won Italian awards for his pastries and makes decorating his shop windows with spectacular confectionery creations a priority. Be sure to stop in while you are walking on Taormina’s main shopping street (Corso Umberto #112).

Chocolate Covered Eggplant by the Cathedral

An Amalfi Coast specialty is chocolate covered eggplant: melanzana in salsa di cioccolato. It sounds unusual but some restaurants have been making this dessert for a century. In particular, Da Gemma in Amalfi, with its terrace set back from the main piazza, is truly an Amalfi Coast classic. You’ll love the seafood and regional dishes-and the view of the Duomo. Via Fra Gerardo Sasso 11.

Emporio Le Sirenuse in Positano

Le Sirenuse (The Sirens) is indisputably one of the best hotels in Positano. But not only is it unique, luxurious and quintessentially Italian, but it is also right across the street from its own boutique, Emporio Le Sirenuse. The shop is run by Carla Sersale, the daughter-in-law of Antonio Sersale, the hotel’s owner. Here you can find everything in exquisite taste: ballet flats by Porselli, Laura Urbinati swimwear, Faraone Mennella jewelry, Venetian glassware and bohemian textiles by Lisa Corti. The shop is Suzy Gershman’s (Born to Shop Italy) favorite store in all of Italy. Divertiti! 30 Via Colombo.

The Villa Borghese Card-More Ways to Save Euros

For the low price of 10 Euros you can purchase the Villa Borghese Card which will get you into one of the sites in the Villa Borghese for free, and the rest of the sites at reduced admission. The sites include the Galleria Borghese (you must book in advance), the Villa Giulia (Etruscan collections) and the Museo Carlo Bilotti. The card also gets you discounts at countless bookstores in the museums, the zoo, cafes, cinemas, parking and even scooter rental! You can even use the card for reduced admission to the Villa Medici, home to the French Academy in Rome. The card is good for one year and can be purchased at various points around Rome including Termini train station and Fiumicino airport. The Villa Borghese is the perfect place for kids in Rome. This card is definitely worth it!

Trattoria Garibaldi in Marsala

Western Sicily is not for the faint of heart. It’s remote (although there are direct flights to Palermo from Rome) and English is definitely NOT spoken with regularity. But among the many hidden treasures of western Sicily is the North African cuisine, a remnant of the 250 year Berber occupation of the 10th and 11th centuries. Marsala, a town known also for its wine (more on that later) is home to Trattoria Garibaldi. Here, among the steady crowds in the multicolored rooms, you will find what is arguably the best fish couscous in Sicily. The dish is complicated to make but Trattoria Garibaldi gets it right-and it’s hailed as the region’s finest. The wine list is nice too, so be sure to pick out something regional-a Donnafugata, perhaps.

Carthusia di Capri-Perfume from the Middle Ages

According to legend, in 1380 the monks at the Carthusian monastery on Capri accidentally created a gorgeous perfume from the dregs of water left in a vase full of Caprese wildflowers. Centuries later the formula for the perfume was rediscovered and Carthusia, I Profumi di Capri, was established. The scents today are still made by hand according to the centuries-old methods and each fragrance is hand bottled as well. Be sure to stop by the shop and factory when you are visiting Capri. Not only will the scents delight your nose, but you can feast your eyes on the beautiful view of the Tyrrhenian Sea while you shop.

The Saldi Bus

The city of Rome is so committed to bringing customers to its city center sales that it has provided an express bus from Termini Station to the shopping district during Saldi season. The 100 will take you straight downtown and operates every 6 minutes, from 10:30 am to 8:30 pm, 7 days a week. Better hurry as Saldi season ends on February 13th!

Mocambo Bar in Taormina

To see and be seen is always the top priority in Italy, and Taormina is no different. The best place in Taormina for evening people-watching is the Mocambo Bar in the 9th of April Piazza (Piazza IX Aprile). There’s live music every night and the iced tea with lemon granita is a must-have. There’s even excellent coffee and wine to be had for 3 Euros a glass. The gelato isn’t half bad either. Try it on a brioche, the Sicilian way.

Donna Rosa in Montepertuso

Up above Positano in Montepertuso (“Hole in the Mountain”) is a restaurant that embodies Italian sensibility. Ristorante Donna Rosa is truly a family affair. The staff is small and the setting is intimate-the kitchen is open for guests to watch the meals being prepared. Classic pastas, meats, rare wines and delicious desserts are on the menu, and if you really like a dish they will give you the recipe (straight from Donna Rosa’s cookbook!). Be sure to stop in and see the “Hole in the Mountain” at sunset on your way to dinner. Resrevations recommended. Via Montepertuso 97/99. +39 089 811806.

Gladiators Fight in the Colosseum-No joke!

Will 2009 be “the year of the Colosseum?” The new virtual tour of ancient Rome, 3D Rewind Rome, which is shown on the site of the old gladiators training school, already has tourists excited about immersing themselves in the events of the ancient city. Umberto Broccoli, the head of archaeology on Rome’s city council, has proposed nighttime gladiator events in the Colosseum alongside recitations from famous Latin poets. And to top it off, extensive renovations are planned for the Colosseum, the Palatine, the Roman Forum, the Imperial Forum and Nero’s Golden House. An exciting time to visit-especially as there are many deals to be had in Rome right now (more on those deals in the next post).

Liquor Limits in Rome

Rome’s mayor, Gianni Alemanno, has just issued a city-wide ban on selling alcohol “to-go” after 9 pm (supermarkets included!) and restrictions on restaurants and clubs after 2 am. A recent stabbing of a tourist in Campo dei Fiori prompted the decision which many residents had been requesting for years. It seems that not everyone in Rome is interested in staying up all night with a bottle of wine in the piazzas and narrow alleyways of Trastevere! Don’t worry, you can still purchase alcohol to go-just do it before 9 pm.

Capofaro in the Aeolian Islands

If you really want to get it away from it all, try the Capofaro Malvasia and Resort in Salina, one of the Aeolian Islands off the coast of Sicily. For those of you who can’t get far enough away from the crowds, this might just be the place you’ve been searching for. Set amid 13 acres of vineyards, the resort is rustically modern, whitewashed and surrounded by the blue sea and views of the neighboring volcanic islands. The resort makes its own Malvasia, a regional sweet white wine. Salina was one of the settings for the 1994 Oscar-winning movie Il Postino and is considered by many to be the most beautiful of the Aeolian islands. Rates the Capofaro start at 170 Euros and include breakfast.

Ristorante L’Arcangelo in the Prati

The Prati district near the Vatican is becoming one of Rome’s most interesting neighborhoods when it comes to food. Bibenda magazine, Italy’s premier wine publication, recently rated Ristorante l’Arcangelo one of Rome’s best restaurants for 2009. On the menu you will find quite a bit of seafood (if you like anchovies, there are several options for you!) and an entire section devoted to foie gras. There is even a price fixe menu of Roman specialties. Throughout the menu you have the option to order half portions of for a reduced price. What a novel idea! Don’t miss the wine list offering many options under 20 Euros.

The Modern Traveler’s Top Amalfi Coast Historical Sites

Not that you need to look for any reasons to visit the Amalfi Coast, but just in case you need some guidance, here are the Modern Traveler’s top historical sites to visit on and around the Costiera Amalfitana.
1. Villa Jovis on Capri: Capri is fabled for two reasons. It is breathtakingly gorgeous and it was the playground for the less than moral Emperor Tiberius. Don’t miss the ruins of his grand palace, the Villa Jovis, at the southern tip of the island. The flower-lined walk to the Villa from town is a lovely way to spend your morning and the views of the Amalfi Coast will knock your socks off.
2. Paestum(pictured): Somehow this sanctuary of ancient Greek temples was overlooked for the past 2,000 years. The 2,500 year old temples are in almost pristine condition and the rest of the archaeological site is pretty interesting too. Paestum is just a short drive from Salerno which is at the southern base of the Amalfi peninsula. Don’t miss the museum!
3. Herculaneum: In less than an hour from the Amalfi Coast you can get to one of the most spectacular ancient Roman archaeological sites in the world. Far less visited than nearby Pompeii, Herculaneum is even better preserved. Be sure to take advantage of the guided tours. It’s well worth the money.
4. Sant’Andrea Cathedral in Amalfi:Built in the 10th century on the ruins of an ancient temple, this cathedral is a fascinating mix of Italian and Arab architecture. The relics of Saint Andrew, martyred in 64 CE, are contained in the crypt below the cathedral. The church is right on the main piazza of Amalfi and the bells of its Moorish campanile resound throughout the town.

Secret Hotels of Sicily

Budget Travel has a great list of villas and farms that have been turned into hotels. Each property starts at below 150 Euros and promises to offer an authentic and unique Sicilian experience. The Villa Letizia in Palermo is right on the waterfront and near one of the city’s most charming quarters. The Hotel Gutkowski in Siracusa’s historic Ortygia district (pictured) offers sea views and a real regional Sicilian breakfast. The Villa Nettuno in Taormina is situated in a lush garden overhanging a seaside cliff. For more “Secret Hotels” read the article on BudgetTravel.com.